Mentaiko Butter Potatoes

In Japan, there's a beloved dish called Jaga Batā (じゃがバター), which literally translates to "potato butter." It's our take on the baked potato—except instead of roasting in an oven, whole new potatoes are simply boiled and served hot with a pat of butter. From there, toppings vary, but instead of sour cream and bacon, you'll likely find it crowned with umami-rich seafood like shiokara (salt-cured squid) or shutou (salted skipjack tuna offal).

That got me thinking—what if I paired Jaga Batā with mentaiko, the bold, briny roe of Alaska pollock (technically a species of cod) that's been cured with salt and chili? It's typically enjoyed over rice, but its deep savoriness also makes it a natural partner for Mentaiko Pasta. And when you think about it, potatoes aren't that different from pasta—they're both starchy, neutral canvases just waiting to soak up flavor.

The result? An absolute flavor bomb. As the heat from the freshly boiled potatoes hits the mentaiko butter, it melts the butter and awakens the chili-infused roe, creating a thick, creamy emulsion that clings to every craggy nook of the spuds. The rich butter tempers the heat of the mentaiko, while the potatoes, much like in a baked potato, offer a fluffy, starchy sweetness that ties everything together.

For the best texture, I like using waxy new potatoes, which hold their shape beautifully while still offering a creamy bite. But if you only have starchy russets, don't worry—they'll still be fantastic. Either way, serve this dish piping hot, and be prepared to fight over the last bite.