Green Pepper Squid Stir Fry

For most of my life, squid's been one of those things I've felt pretty "meh" about. I'd eat it if it was put in front of me, but it's not something I'd order or cook myself. That all changed during a recent trip to Miyazaki and a meal shared with friends at an okonomiyaki counter.

The cook stir-fried fresh strips of squid on a teppan griddle with green peppers, and what slid onto the plate was tender and sweet, with none of the fishiness I'd expected. It may seem like an odd thing to stick with me from the land of $50 mangoes and Miyazaki wagyu, but I couldn't shake the memory, and it's one of the first things I cooked after getting home.

To be honest, I've only cooked squid a handful of times before, but it's not as intimidating as you'd think, once you know your way around its anatomy. Cleaning one takes just a few minutes, and I've walked you through all of it in the recipe below.

There are two little tricks that make a big difference here. Marinating the squid with a splash of sake pulls double duty: the amino acids add a savory backbone, while the sake carries off and neutralizes the amines that make squid smell fishy. A pinch of potato starch does the rest, sealing in moisture so the squid stays plump and tender instead of seizing up into tight rubber bands as you cook it.

The peppers go in close to the end, which gives them just enough time to shed their raw, bitter edge while staying bright green and crisp. Then I finish it off with a drizzle of soy sauce, which caramelizes almost instantly, tying the squid and peppers together. The crisp, refreshing peppers are the perfect foil for the tender, umami-rich squid. It's a fast, savory bite for a hot summer evening with a frosty beer in the other hand.