Enoki Cheese Crisps

Every so often a dish pops into my head that I can't quite name. This one materialized as I was daydreaming about the crispy bits of browned cheese that hang off a grilled cheese sandwich. It sits somewhere between a fritter, a cheese cracker, and a mushroom chip, but none of those is quite right. What I can tell you is that they're dangerously good, the kind of thing you keep reaching for until the plate is empty (here's another one along these lines: Crispy Roasted Maitake)

The magic is in the contrast. Where the enoki and cheese meet the pan, the outside browns and crisps into a shattering golden shell, while the inside stays juicy, with a fibrous meaty chew that makes each cluster eat like a small mushroom steak. The crackly cheese edge reminds me of a frico, the lacy Italian cheese cracker, but here it just happens to fuse itself with a bundle of straw-like mushrooms.

To save time, I used a bag of pre-shredded mystery cheese and it worked beautifully, so don't overthink it. Any melting cheese is fair game, such as mozzarella, gruyere, and gouda.

The most important thing here is the heat. Keep the pan at medium-low and let the clusters take their time. Turn it up too high and the cheese scorches and turns bitter before it has a chance to crisp.

I first served these as a side with dinner, but they've since wandered into other roles. They make a great high-protein snack, and they're sturdy enough to stand in as the "bread" for a gluten-free sandwich. If you want to serve them as an appetizer, cut them against the grain while they're still hot and fold each strip like a little taco. You can even stuff them with something like a roasted chili pepper or a bit of jamón.