Cheesy Taro Gnocchi

It's hard to believe it's been 13 years since I created this recipe shortly after I moved to Japan. It's still my favorite way to make gnocchi, and even if the diminutive dumplings aren't your thing, the method for the sauce is the easiest way to make cheese sauce. The trick is to use potato starch to thicken and stabilize the cheese so it doesn't break when added to a hot liquid (in this case, cream). Also, by adding some Pecorino Romano to the dough, the gnocchi takes on a cheesy essence that's ridiculously flavorful. If you're a fan of Italian dumplings, be sure to check out my recipe for Malfatti, a favorite dish from my childhood.

From the Archives (December 12, 2011)

I love gnocchi. It's not quite a dumpling or pasta; it defies categorization and is made in about as many ways as there are people who cook it. Unfortunately, it's one of those Italian dishes (like Tiramisu) that skyrocketed to fame in posh American restaurants during the 1990s and has been so overdone (and overdone poorly at that) that it's become a bit of a cliché.

Often gluey, starchy, or just plain chewy, I forgot why I fell in love with the little potato dumplings all those years ago. As a result, I can't remember the last time I ordered it. That is, until I recently had it at an Italian restaurant in Singapore.

I'd just finished a 7-course seafood meal at a Chinese restaurant and was on to my second dinner, which included a salumi platter and a whole pizza. A plain white dish with cream-colored gnocchi covered in a cream sauce appeared on the table. It didn't look all that appealing, but the aroma was so seductive that my hand went for my fork, and before I knew it, I had a piece of gnocchi in my mouth.

Each morsel, about the width and length of a piece of macaroni, was tender and yet had more bite than a chunk of mashed potato. Despite the plate's homely appearance, the texture and flavor of this dish were phenomenal. It reminded me of all the reasons I fell in love with gnocchi in the first place.

About a week later, I found myself at home, searching the fridge for something to eat. There was a block of Gruyere cheese and lots of baby taro. Unlike in other parts of the world, the Japanese use the small tubers that form off the main corm of the taro plant. They have a slick mouthfeel when cooked, which puts many people off, but it's a nutritious vegetable with a wonderfully smooth texture. It got the wheels turning in my head.

As it turns out, taro makes excellent gnocchi! I may even go so far as to say I prefer it to gnocchi made with potatoes. Since taro lacks the gritty texture that potatoes often have, the dumplings end up satiny and smooth. The resulting gnocchi has a mouthfeel that's smoother and lighter than regular gnocchi, and yet it has a marvelous texture that's like biting into a cold piece of Brie.

For the sauce, I went with the Gruyere that I had in the fridge, but you could just as easily make it with Gorgonzola or another flavorful cheese that melts. Tossing the cheese in potato starch before adding it to the cream keeps it from clumping and helps thicken the sauce. This sauce is a lot less work than making a bechamel, and I think it turns out smoother.

The only thing I could think of that would make this better would be to shave some white truffles on top. If you want some more texture, you could also toast some bread crumbs in butter or olive oil and sprinkle them on top.