Mushroom Shira-ae

Mushroom shira-ae doesn't look like much, but it's one of those dishes that tastes ten times better than it looks. Shira-ae is one of Japan's aemono, dishes whose prepared ingredients are paired with a seasoning. In shira-ae, that "dressing" is a creamy mixture of mashed tofu. It's the sort of small side that's perfect for an ichiju-sansai style meal (a bowl of rice, one soup, and three side dishes).

Shira-ae can be an everyday side or something a little more special, and the earthy rainbow of mushrooms I've been seeing at my local markets made me want to give it an autumn spin. I ended up using walnuts because they taste like fall to me, rather than the toasted sesame seeds often used in shira-ae, and it was the right call.

Sautéing the mushrooms rather than blanching them brings out their meaty umami. Against that savory flavor, the creamy walnut tofu tastes almost cheese-like. Calling that mixture a sauce undersells it, though. The tofu and walnuts are the heart of the dish, giving this little side some substance and protein, with the mushrooms there for texture and flavor.

I like it warm or at room temperature, and it keeps in the fridge for 3–4 days, so I make it ahead for several meals. If you have the time, a little green garnish or a few boiled carrot slices cut into maple leaves give it the color it needs to look as good as it tastes