Mentaiko Shiraae

It may look a little beige, but shiraae (白和え) is one of those dishes that surprises you with its luxurious texture and rich umami. The name literally means "white dressed" in Japanese, and it refers to a method of coating vegetables, seafood, or mushrooms in a rich, velvety tofu "dressing." At its best, it's as velvety as cream cheese—only lighter, cleaner, and robustly nutty. 

Draining the tofu properly and grinding it with toasted sesame seeds is key. This gives the firm tofu a silky texture and infuses it with a warm, roasted aroma. For this version, I've taken the classic concept and dialed up the umami with mentaiko—spicy, cured cod roe. Its briny pop of salinity and heat balances beautifully with the creamy tofu and nutty sesame, while thin ribbons of fresh shiso add a bright, herbaceous lift. If you're a fan of mentaiko pasta or my mentaiko butter potatoes, you'll certainly enjoy this dip.

The result is a deeply satisfying dish that's traditionally enjoyed as a sake-friendly appetizer or a delicate side dish for rice, but I love spreading it on a thin crostini or using it as a dip for blanched snap peas and asparagus. I love that you can prep this dish a day in advance— giving the flavors a chance to meld overnight.