Otosō (New Year’s Spiced Sake)

On Sunday I wrote about Oshōgatsu traditions in Japan, and otosō (お屠蘇), a spiced sake, is the first sip of the New Year. Unfortunately, for many younger Japanese, it's become something to avoid, carrying the image of a medicinal, syrupy-sweet concoction that tastes more like obligation than celebration.

Otoso began as an herbal infusion in China, then made its way to Japan’s imperial court during the Heian period. Over time it trickled into homes, where families sipped from stacked lacquer cups called sakazuki as a protective ritual during New Year's. The tonic symbolically wards off illness and misfortune while inviting good fortune and longevity.

Most modern versions lean heavily on mirin, which makes them cloying, and they're often spiced with premixed teabags that tend to taste musty and medicinal. It's no surprise otoso has fallen out of favor.

My version uses fresh citrus and ginger with dried spices like cinnamon, sansho, and cloves. You get that cozy warmth from the spices, plus a bright, citrusy lift that keeps it refreshing. The key is to limit the infusion to about an hour, so you end up with a gentle, mildly spiced sake that is genuinely delicious!

When you're shopping for sake, there's no need for anything expensive here since the spices will mask delicate aromatics anyway. As for the mirin, that's optional: skip it if you want something drier, add more if you prefer it sweeter. Either way, you get a crisp, refreshing sake cocktail that actually makes you excited to toast the New Year.