Growing up in the US, I never really thought of rice as having a season. But here in Japan, the new rice harvest is a celebrated rite of autumn. Shinmai, or new rice, is prized for its plump, sticky texture and sweet flavor, and autumn is the perfect time to make Takikomi Gohan. It's basically the Japanese version of pilaf where rice gets cooked with all sorts of seasonal goodies—like Matsutake mushrooms, salmon, or, in this case, tender kabocha squash.
Kabocha, with its velvety, vibrant orange flesh, is one of my favorite autumn ingredients. As the rice gently steams, it absorbs the sweet, earthy essence of this winter squash, transforming it into something both comforting and nourishing. The chunks of kabocha turn soft, almost creamy, making each bite a delightful mix of tender rice and buttery squash.
To make this even more satisfying, I like to add inari wrappers, cut into thin strips. These fried tofu pouches bring a bit of richness to the dish while lending a meaty texture, and the umami-rich seasoning balances beautifully with the natural sweetness of this winter squash.
When cooking shinmai, keep in mind that it has a higher moisture content than older rice. That's why it's important to cut back on the amount of water you use to cook it. For regular short-grain rice, my go-to ratio is 1½ US cups (300 grams) of rice to 1 ⅔ US cups of water (394 milliliters). But with Shinmai, it's best to reduce the water by about two tablespoons to account for that extra moisture.
If you're cooking this on the stove, you can use my trusty method to make perfect stovetop short-grain rice.
To finish this off, I garnished my pumpkin rice with a few sprigs of fresh mitsuba leaves. Their bright, herbal flavor adds a lovely contrast to the sweetness of the squash. Don't worry if you can't find mitsuba, though—a sprinkle of chopped scallions or even a pinch of black sesame seeds will do the trick.
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