Christmas for our family is a holiday for all of us to come together and share an entire day of food; it also happens to be my mother's birthday. Since she's more of a pescatarian than a carnivore, traditional Christmas dinners like ham and goose aren't really her cup of tea.
That's why I decided to do a San Francisco Cioppino for her this year. It's a seafood soup similar to bouillabaisse and brodetto that grew up in San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf. While more colorful creation myths credit the name to a heavy Italian accent and the phrase "chip in" (as in "chip in your seafood"), the more widely accepted theory is that the name comes from a nearly identical Italian soup from the port city of Genoa called "Ciuppin". Whatever the case, the use of live Dungeness Crabs (which are currently in season), makes this a dish that's uniquely San Franciscan. (I also have a recipe for New England Clam Chowder, in case you're tastes run more East Coast.)
This is a no-holds-barred San Francisco Cioppino that starts with a richly sweet fish bone and shrimp head stock. The broth comes out naturally sweet and almost creamy from the roe inside the crab and shrimp. It would make a heavenly consommé on its own, but my philosophy on soups is that you can never have too much flavor, so a small fishing trawler-worth of seafood goes into the Cioppino, along with extra aromatics, and a one-two punch of umami coming from tomatoes and anchovies.
I won't lie to you, the seafood for this San Francisco Cioppino cost nearly $100 at a Chinese supermarket (i.e. you'll pay a lot more at Whole Foods), and it's certainly not a quick weeknight meal. That said, I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a restaurant that will give you enough seafood to feed 6 people for a hundred bucks. Besides, the effort involved is of a more lackadaisical variety, giving you plenty of time to catch a relative up on life in the past year, while sipping a glass of Barolo.
My advice is to use live crab if you can find it, and if you're squeamish about deconstructing a live crustacean, throw it in the freezer just long enough to put it to sleep (but not long enough to freeze it). And whatever you do, please don't give him a name like crusty the crustacean and let him do a little dance for you on your counter top with those big innocent looking antenna-eyes, or else you might find yourself spending dinner at the ocean setting your meal free.
This recipe first appeared on norecipes.com but due to its age I've moved it here to my personal recipe archive. Check out the full No Recipes Archives for more older recipe or check out some of my favorite recipes.
Units
Ingredients
for fish stock
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 480 grams onion (~2 medium s, chopped)
- 2 ribs celery (chopped)
- 1 parsnip medium, chopped
- ½ head garlic (peeled and smashed)
- 750 milliliters dry white wine (pinot grigio works well)
- 6 cups water
- 2 pounds fish bones bones and heads chopped into chunks (red snapper works well)
- 15 large shrimp with heads (preferably with orange roe)
- 2 Dungeness crab live
- 5 sprigs thyme fresh
- 1 large sprig oregano fresh
- ½ bunch flat leaf parsley
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt (less if you use regular salt)
for Cioppino
- 2 small onions (chopped)
- 5 cloves garlic (minced)
- 2 tomatoes roma (chopped with seeds)
- ⅓ cups basil (chopped)
- 1.5 kilogram tomatoes stewed (crushed with hands)
- 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
- 900 grams sea bass (cut into large chunks)
- 1360 grams clams live manilla
- chervil or flat leaf parsley or for garnish
Instructions
- Remove the heads from the 15 large shrimp as well as the legs and shells, but leave the tails on. Set the shells aside for the stock, then devein the shrimp by making a shallow incision along the back side of the shrimp from head to tail and removing any brown "gunk".
- Remove the legs and claws from the 2 Dungeness crab by twisting and pulling, this will subdue it pretty quickly. Remove the little flap on the underside of the crab, then pry the top shell away from the body, reserving for the stock. Use a wrench or nutcracker to crack the legs and claws. Cut each body into 4 segments. Refrigerate until ready to use.
- Heat a large stockpot over medium heat until hot. Add about 2 tablespoons olive oil then add the 480 grams onion, 2 ribs celery, 1 parsnip, and ½ head garlic. Fry until soft, fragrant and starting to brown around the edges.
- Add the 750 milliliters dry white wine and turn up to heat to bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes to burn off the alcohol.
- Add the 6 cups water, 2 pounds fish bones, shrimp heads/shells, the top shells of the crab, 5 sprigs thyme, 1 large sprig oregano, ½ bunch flat leaf parsley, 2 bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon kosher salt. Bring this to a boil and skim off any foam that accumulates on the surface.
- Once there is no more foam forming, turn the heat down to medium low, cover and simmer for 2 hours.
- Strain through a colander and press on the solids with a potato masher to get every last bit of stock out. Discard the solids.
- Rinse the pot, place over medium heat and add a splash of oil. Fry the 2 small onions and 5 cloves garlic until soft and fragrant, then add the 2 tomatoes and ⅓ cups basil.
- Return the fish stock you made to the pot along with the 1.5 kilogram tomatoes, and 1 tablespoon anchovy paste, and bring to a boil.
- Lower the heat to medium low then add the 2 Dungeness crab, 900 grams sea bass, and 1360 grams clams and cover the pot. Let this simmer until the clams are open and the fish is cooked (about 10 minutes).
- Add the 15 large shrimp and continue cooking until the shrimp just turn pink (another minute or two).
- Serve the Cioppino in large bowls with some chopped chervil or flat leaf parsley to garnish, and a big hunk of crusty sourdough bread.
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