Mapo Zucchini

If you've ever had mapo tofu, you know it's not really about the tofu; it's about that outrageously flavorful meat sauce. Spicy, umami-packed, and just a little bit tingly from Sichuan pepper, it's the kind of sauce that could make cardboard taste good. In Japan, we often swap the tofu for eggplant, and it got me thinking… why not zucchini?

Zucchini tends to get a bad rap for being bland or watery, but with the right technique, it transforms into a sweet, juicy veggie that's actually craveworthy. My trick in this recipe is to slowly pan-roast it in toasted sesame oil until it's golden brown and cooked through. This brings out its natural sugars while giving it enough structure to hold up in the stir-fry.

Once it's got some color, I turn up the heat and stir-fry some ground pork before adding chopped garlic chives and the sauce. I didn't want this to be too soupy, so I whisked together a quick mix of pantry seasonings: Shaoxing wine and agedred miso for savory umami, plus doubanjiang and chili oil for fiery heat.

A bit of potato starch thickens it into a glossy glaze that clings to every bite. A final hit of freshly ground Sichuan pepper delivers a fragrant citrusy aroma and málà kick. This is one of those spices that's especially prone to losing its aromatic oils once ground, so I highly recommend grinding whole peppercorns just before using. I keep mine in a dedicated pepper mill, but a spice grinder or mortar and pestle works too.

This Mapo Zucchini is quick, deeply satisfying, and a great way to use up summer squash. Serve it with rice, tuck it into a rice bowl, or eat it straight out of the pan—I won't judge.